Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben
2014
18 p Richard Hemming MW & Tamlyn Currin, The Great Riesling Revolution, May 2016:
Smells like a lovage and lime granita. Very aniseedy. Gorgeous structure, pepper, verbena - the fine bone structure of a wine that is yet to take on flesh. Dignity and stature. It's a wine that made me think of Michelangelo: 'In every block of marble I see a statue as plain as though it stood before me…'
2012
94 p. Robert Parkers "The Wine Advocate", May 2014, review by David Schildknecht
Lime rind bitterness and sting of nettle lend near face-slapping invigoration to a wine full of juicy fresh lime and apple and tinged with stony and saline elements. Smoky hints of black tea serve for counterpoint in the nose as well as on the palate, which exhibits alluring textural refinement allied to liquid perfume – imagine the bittersweet impression of sucking on honeysuckle stems – rendering the polished yet animating palate here absolutely ravishing. The finish here represents a resonant, umami-rich afterglow of zesty, piquant, saliva-inducing and diversely mineral impressions. This beauty ought to merit attention through at least 2025.
96 p. Wine Enthusiast 01/2014
Old vines on the Heiligenstein hill offer a richly textured, impressive wine. There is terrific concentration allied to fragrant acidity, hints of white flowers and apricot fruit flavors. The future for this powerfully dense wine is considerable, so don’t drink before 2018.
2011
17.5 p Richard Hemming MW & Tamlyn Currin, The Great Riesling Revolution, May 2016
An intricate embroidery of peaches and clementines and stone smoke. Just the edge of caramelisation beginning to curl softly over a dusty, white currant and wild broom core. Complex, lingering
and lithe.
2008
Tasting note from Roger C. Bohmrich MW, October 21, 2015, Austrian Riesling Tasting at Le Bernardin Privé, New York
Kamptal DAC Reserve Zöbinger Heiligenstein “Alte Reben”, Bründlmayer ****(*)
Light gold. Intense, piquant, inflected aromatics with exceptional purity and complexity. On the palate, the wine is simply gorgeous, filling the mouth with a sensual richness. Multidimensional, precisely balanced, long and caressing. This Riesling, harvested November 26 – 27, is extremely impressive in this very early stage of development in bottle.
2008
Still restrained , peaches and pineapple roasted almonds and honey as well as mineral flavors; Complex, yet still very young on the nose, very concentrated and rich in extract; full-bodied and potent but balanced with fresh acidity and extract, pineapple dried abricots and white peaches on the palate very opulent and powerful though pure and precise, excellent grip, very long spicy and mineral finish, and again great potential.
2007
White flower and apples, peaches, pineapple, and honey as well as mineral slightly smokey flavors; still very youthful on the nose, although its complexity is already shown, on the palate very concentrated and rich in extract; full-bodied and potent but balanced with some fresh acidity and extract, pineapple dried abricots and white peaches on the palate very opulent and powerful though pure and precise, very good structure, very long finish, and enormous potential, has to mature.
2004
Peaches and pineapple and honey as well as mineral flavors; Complex, yet still very young on the nose, very concentrated and rich in extract; full-bodied and potent but balanced with fresh acidity and extract, pineapple and white peaches on the palate fine fruit and yet powerful; pure and precise, excellent grip, very long finish, and enormous potential.
2003
The oldest vines in Heiligenstein were left to pick until last and the result displays tremendous depth and intensity. The aroma here is almost all mineral today, but one can coax out site-typical floral and herbal notes which are then reinforced on the palate, with an abundance of pit fruits, licorice, salt and pepper. Full and rich. Striking length of floral perfume and pungent minerality. (Stephen Tanzer´s International Wine Cellar")
2002
It tastes like melted stones. Or I don´t know, herbs, of frickin´mint leaves; considers more and more, struggling to find words, lost in reverie, not knowing reverie is precondition for: gravitas. (Terry Theise Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, NY)
2002
A beauty. Racy and intense, showing a stony element from start to finish, this keeps coming at you with precision and clarity. Stone fruits and wild berries round out the flavor profile. Drink now through 2010. (Wine Spectator 2004, Bruce Sanderson)
2002
Tight with wonderful intensity. Pure and arrow-like but fleshed out with inflections of citrus. Spicy honey notes but tastes bone dry. (Jancis Robinson, UK)
2001
Medium straw. Terrific nose, bracing, mineral, pure, copybook Riesling. Rich, assertive, powerful, quite high alcohol. Very good acidity, peppery, persistent. Unevolved and has a long way to go. Good length. (Stephen Brook, The world of fine wine 5/2005)
2001
Seductive beeswax and lime, then a palate with flint, lime, slate. A structure that boasts complexity, restraint, potential and quality in equal measures. That little extra richness is the key. (Simon Field, The world of fine wine 5/2005)
2000
Medium straw. Firm tangy nose, peaches, quite mineral. Rich, creamy, sleek, concentrated, with fine underlying acidity that swells up on the mid-palate to balance a hint of sweetness. Still youthful, tight and invigorating, adding up to considerable complexity. Quite good length. (Stephen Brook, The world of fine wine 5/2005)
2000
A surprising explosion of flavour, pineapple and exotic fruits. The illusion of sweetness, if indeed it is an illusion, is a first-class piece of prestidigitation. There is alcohol here, following the vintage, and a clean but strangely unsatisfactory finish. Hors classe. (Simon Field, The world of fine wine 2/2005)
1999
What´s good about this wine is really good; an enthralling nose, the noblest face of Riesling; lemon-blossom and mineral and lime parfait and Mt. Rainier cherries; the palate is minty-hot but enters with impossible depth and stylishness. (Terry Theise Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, NY)
1997
Medium straw. Very spicy nose, tremendous vigour and clean apricot fruit. Very rich, not obviously Riesling, showing rather a lot of alcohol and a trace of sweetness that may be derived from the alcohol. Broad and less zesty than the nose, despite evident minerality on the finish. Quite good length, thought a bit hot and dry. (Stephen Brook, The world of fine wine 5/2005)
1997
Steely, savoury, lime, incense and peat. Encyclopedic flavours, in other words, confirmed with interest on the palate. Taut and very firm acidity to belie the age of the wine. Structurally harmonious, albeit in a relatively early state of evolution. (Simon Field, The world of fine wine 5/2005)
1997
Intense aromas of lime, spice and mineral, with enough flesh to offset a lean...(Wine Spectator)
1997
It´s a shining, resonant, regal and elegant Riesling; aristocratic and grand; (Terry Theise Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, NY)
1996
Very concentrated . This is beautifully poised. Ripe, a suspicion of sweetness. Very good grip. This is complex and classy. Long. (The Vine, Clive Coates)
1996
Peachy, charred fruit aspect augments the aromas of flowers, herbs, pitted fruits and citrus. Bright and elegant despite rather exotic, tropical, botrytis-enhanced fruit. Dense, gripping palate impression. Finish is as wonderfully pure in fruit and transparent to mineral tones. (Stephen Tanzer´s International Wine Cellar)
1995
A fruity and soft-textured Riesling that´s verging on off-dry. With licorice and honey flavors and a long, succulent finish. (Wine Spectator)
1995
Much density; the first impression is a lime-tilleul concentrate, then candied lemon, then passion fruit; fantastic power and neon intensity; you exhale sweet talc through the soft-palate, then there´s the dense extract and then the sizzling spice, and then more exotic flowery essence; (Terry Theise Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, NY)
1995
The old vines in question are in a steeply terraced portion of the Heiligenstein and were gradually planted during the ´20, propagated from a few ancient initial rows and in such a way that many of the resultant vines are essentially on their own root stock. Bründlmayer was lucky enough to gain control of these with the ´91 vintage and every wine since then has been unique and of exceptional quality. The ´95 reveals its brush with botrytis with aromas of tropical fruit as well as the more usual citrus and flowers. (Stephen Tanzer´s International Wine Cellar)
1995
Firm, rich but dry on the nose. Ripe, concentrated. Balanced. Will still evolve and should last well. (The Vine, Clive Coates)
1994
It is a superb, dry Austrian Riesling. It possesses a fragrant nose of honeyed fruit, flowers. There is almost the essence of concentrated fruit in this highly extracted, precise wine. (The Wine Advocate, Robert M. Parker, Jr.´s)
1994
Highly nuanced aromas of caraway seed, white pepper, and the vineyard-typical lemon and lime. Slightly sweet and very generous on the palate, with strong extract; has great freshness and cut. Explosive finishing fruit goes on and on. Beautiful balance of sugars and acids. Stunning wine, capable of long evolution in bottle. (Stephen Tanzer´s International Wine Cellar)
1994
This wine is an essence. Purest heart of tilleul on the nose, als redcurrant and peche-de-vigne; polleny and lemon-blossomy, amazing density and depth, intense concentration; immense. (Terry Theise Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, NY)
1993
Nose of peach and lemon-blossom. This is the single best Austrian wine I´ve ever had, and one of the four or five best wines I´ve ever had. Almost wrenchingly painful, it´s so beautiful. You want a wine that can bring you to tears of joy? Come here. (Terry Theise Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, NY)
1993
Fascinating, vibrant nose combines scents of lime skin and sage, with ad distinct cassis and cranberry character. Great richness and sweetness in the mouth, given shape by juicy acidity; chewy with extract and texture. Explosive minerally, stony finish of extraordinary length. A complete, consistent wine from start to finish. (Stephen Tanzer´s International Wine Cellar)
1991
Extraordinary nose combines pine resin , caraway seed, and a sappy red fruit (cranberry) quality. Dry entry, then powerful and dense with extract; bright, firm, and extremely young, with bracing, minerally grip. Long, powerful aftertaste. Absolutely fascinating wine. (Stephen Tanzer´s International Wine Cellar)
1991
A fantasy of complexity on the nose; raspberry too. A sassy, pugnacious minerality, allied to an almost syrupy thickness of texture; dark raspberry or blackberry; just occupies the palate. A great, dark masterpiece. (Terry Theise Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, NY)
